Ratley sits quietly on the edge of the escarpment, a small ironstone village where the pace drops as soon as you park up and start walking. It isn't a place that demands a whole day, which is rather the point: within about two miles of the village you'll find six places to eat and drink, three places to visit, three places to stay, two organised activities and a single shop, so there's enough to fill an afternoon without any of the queuing or hurry you get elsewhere. It suits walkers, anyone curious about the landscape and the layers of history in it, and visitors who like their lunch unhurried and their views earned on foot.
A good few hours might begin with the Motte & Bailey, where the earthworks give you a sense of how long people have thought this ridge worth holding. From there, the Edge Hill Views Walk from Upton House takes you along the escarpment, or you can follow the Upton House Ley Line Walk if you prefer something with a puzzle to it. Upton House itself repays a slow wander, with the Pavilion Restaurant on hand afterwards, or the Rose & Crown back in the village for a pint.
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